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Wednesday 11 August 2021

1977) Did You Know Series (51) Spatlese Wines (Late Harvest Riesling/Chenin Blanc Wines): The Story of the "Spatlese Reiter" ("Late Harvest Horseman") in 1775 from Schloss Johannisberg, Germany & the birth of Late Harvest Wines:

1977) Did You Know Series (51) Spatlese Wines (Late Harvest Riesling/Chenin Blanc Wines): The Story of the "Spatlese Reiter" ("Late Harvest Horseman") in 1775 from Schloss Johannisberg, Germany & the birth of Late Harvest Wines:

From the 1680s to 1789, Germany comprised many small territories which were parts of the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation.

Schloss Johannisberg: The Origins of Spätlese style Wines:

Since 817 AD, grapes have been cultivated on these slopes, and for the last 300 years almost exclusively Riesling. The estate of Schloss Johannisberg is thus famous for establishing Riesling as the dominant German wine grape. Schloss Johannisberg is a treasure house for Riesling-style wines and the art of wine making.

Around 1100 AD, monks from the Benedictine Abbey of Saint Alban in Mainz founded a new cloister on this spot – exactly on the 50th latitude. 

Around the year 1130 AD, they built a basilica. The new monastery was dedicated to Saint John, and its properties called Johannisberg (Saint John's mountain).

From 1716 AD, the estate belonged to the Prince Bishop of Fulda who built the huge castle with its three wings. Four years later, 294,000 Riesling grapevines were planted in the estate's vineyards, triggering a viticultural explosion as winemaker Odo Staab noted: "In all of the Rheingau, no other grape variety for the making of wine is to be planted except the Rüßling." 

This was also the birth of the "Johannisberger" which became the very synonym for high quality wines in the centuries to come. Still today in the US, "Johannisberg Riesling" is the equivalent for Riesling wines in general.

Since 1718, permission to start harvest at Johannisberg was announced in writing from the Prince-Bishop of Fulda by means of a so-called autumn courier – "Herbstkurier".

Birth of the Late Harvest "Spatlese" Wines - An interesting Tale:

The narration goes that at the Vineyards of Schloss Johannisberg, the monks were not permitted to pick the grapes until the Abbot of Fulda gave his consent. 

During the harvest of 1775, the Abbot was away attending a Synod. By the time the official authorization for the start of harvest came from the Prince Bishop in Fulda, who then owned the estate and gave an annual blessing, the monks considered it to be too late.

That year the grapes were ripening early and some of them had started to rot on the vines. The monks, becoming concerned, dispatched a rider to ask for the Abbot's permission to pick the grapes. 

for some reason, the courier sent out by the abbey at Fulda was delayed for 14 days. According to some, the abbey's messenger was robbed on the way to bring the official harvest picking order. 

By the time the order finally arrived noble rot had set in, but the harvest was carried out anyway, although no high hopes were staked on the wine from the rotten grapes.

When he finally reached Johannisberg, the grapes in the vineyards were shrivelled on the vine and covered in noble rot, which was until then unknown to the wine makers. 

Nevertheless, the courageous winemaker of the estate had the grapes brought in and pressed. He was soon shocked to find that the 'rotten' harvest had actually produced a wine of unsurpassed quality. To his amazement, the wine was one of the best the monks had ever produced/tasted. This spelt the beginning of Spatlese-style and late harvest wines. (plural form is Spätlesen). 

Schloss Johannisberg began actively producing late harvest – Spätlese – wines affected by noble rot. The delayed courier has since  become known as the "Spatlese Reiter" (or the "Late Harvest Horseman").

These wines are popular all over the world, including in India.

SPATLESE - Breaking up the word "Spat" means "Late" and "Lese" means "picking". Both together mean "Late Picking" This is a medium-style wine. The extra days in the sun give the wine more body and a more intense flavour.

The Late Harvest Chenin Blanc (York Winery):

Notes - "This wine is straw yellow in colour, luscious, medium bodied with a good balance of natural acidity and sweet fruit, exhibiting aromas of honeydew, lemon and tropical fruit. It pairs well with fruit based desserts, cakes and cookies."

The "Late Harvest Chenin Blanc - Revillo" (Vintage Winery):

Notes - " This wine greets you with a deep golden yellow colour. The aromas from the overripe grapes are purely of raisin grapes, dry figs, honey and dry fruits like almonds and nuts. On the palate, the sweetness is perfectly balanced with the acidity, resulting in a very pleasant and cheeses like Stilton, Gorgonzola, other mustiness cheeses or with rich biscuits at tea time.




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12 comments:

  1. Rajendrasinh Mohite has commented:
    "Very interesting information."

    ReplyDelete
  2. Rajan Trikha has commented:
    "It’s well said that 'kabhi khottey Sikke bhi Kaam Aatey hain'. Nice information about rotten grapes invent a rare tasted Wine."

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Trikha sahab. It is true. The monks were thinking that the whole crop wasa disaster, and accidentally found a great wine technique.

      Delete
  3. Vikram Bhatnagar has commented:
    "I'm truly amazed at your treasure trove of information and anecdotes! 👌"

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Vikram. The SBI had taught me to be a "generalist" and not a "specialist", so I did delve into several hobbies to keep me busy after retirement. This was one such earlier pastime.😀

      Delete
  4. Santosh Khanna has commented:
    "Thanks for sharing this information."

    ReplyDelete
  5. Ashok Borate has commented:
    "Very nice information."

    ReplyDelete
  6. Dhruv Kumar Seth has commented:
    "Great information sir."

    ReplyDelete